3D Printer Filament Temperature Chart
Starting nozzle and print-bed temperatures for common 3D printing filaments. Fine-tune with a temperature tower for each spool.
Filament temperatures
| Filament | Nozzle | Bed | Enclosure |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 190–220 °C (374–428 °F) | 0–60 °C (32–140 °F) | No |
| PETG | 230–250 °C (446–482 °F) | 70–85 °C (158–185 °F) | Optional |
| ABS | 230–250 °C (446–482 °F) | 95–110 °C (203–230 °F) | Yes |
| ASA | 240–260 °C (464–500 °F) | 90–110 °C (194–230 °F) | Yes |
| TPU (flexible) | 210–230 °C (410–446 °F) | 30–60 °C (86–140 °F) | No |
| Nylon | 240–270 °C (464–518 °F) | 70–90 °C (158–194 °F) | Recommended |
| Polycarbonate | 260–310 °C (500–590 °F) | 100–120 °C (212–248 °F) | Yes |
Notes
Manufacturer ranges vary; the spool label is the best starting point. Print a temperature tower to find the sweet spot: too hot causes stringing and blobs, too cold causes weak layers and under-extrusion. ABS and ASA warp without a heated enclosure. Most hobby hotends with PTFE liners should stay below about 240 °C; all-metal hotends are needed for nylon and polycarbonate.
Frequently asked questions
What temperature should PLA print at?
190–220 °C nozzle, 0–60 °C bed.
What temperature for PETG?
230–250 °C nozzle, 70–85 °C bed.
Why is my ABS warping?
It shrinks as it cools — use a 100 °C bed and an enclosure.
What causes stringing?
Usually too high a nozzle temperature or insufficient retraction.
Does printing speed change the nozzle temperature?
Yes — faster printing needs a hotter nozzle (often 5–15 °C more) so the filament melts fully in less time.